Makeup Pros Want Women 50+ To Stop Doing This

You sit down to apply your concealer, only to see that the end result looks cakey, fine lines are accentuated, and your under-eyes somehow look more dehydrated than before. What gives? According to New York City-based makeup artist Selena Graham, the skin under our eyes is some of the most delicate on the whole body. “We begin losing collagen in our mid-20s, which, by the time we reach our 40s and 50s, dramatically changes the elasticity of our skin,” she says.

So, what does that mean for your concealer routine? The techniques and formulas that worked in your 20s and 30s may no longer deliver the same seamless results. As skin becomes thinner, drier and less elastic, heavy-handed application can make texture and fine lines more noticeable. The key, Graham says, is to rethink your approach: less product is often more, and proper skin prep becomes just as important — if not more important — than the concealer itself.

The Problem With Over-Application

Many makeup techniques involve drawing a “concealer triangle” underneath the eyes, a method that’s often used to brighten and bring light to the center of the face. The problem: this can deposit far more product than you actually need, especially on mature skin. Instead of creating a smooth, brightened effect, that excess concealer can settle into creases as you move and make the under-eye area appear heavier, drier and more textured.

A more strategic approach is to concentrate brightness only where it’s needed. “I prefer using a brighter concealer toward the inner corners of the eyes and then transitioning to a slightly deeper shade as you move toward the outer corner,” says Los Angeles-based makeup artist Lisa Chamberlain. “This creates brightness where you actually want it without putting a lot of light-colored product across the entire under-eye area.”

How to Prep Your Under-Eyes for Concealer

As the skin ages, skin prep becomes a necessity to keep the area hydrated and as smooth as possible. “Whether it’s an eye balm to even out the skin or a corrector to neutralize darkness, the right prep means you don’t need nearly as much concealer,” explains Chamberlain. “Dermalogica’s Phyto Nature Lifting Eye Cream and the Hourglass Equilibrium Intensive Hydrating Eye Balm both help even out the texture of the skin, and the concealer just lays so beautifully on top.”

The same less-is-more philosophy applies to color correction, a step that helps neutralize discoloration and camouflage darkness before concealer even touches your face. “As we age, the eyes can become more hollow, which creates additional shadows underneath the eyes,” says Chamberlain. By addressing darkness first, you’re creating a more even-toned canvas, which means you can rely on a much thinner layer of concealer to brighten the area rather than trying to cover everything at once.

One thing to note: You’ll definitely want to let your eye prep products sink into the skin while you apply the rest of your makeup. That way, the skin has plenty of time to absorb the moisture, plumping the skin from the inside out, says Graham, adding that the better you prep the area at the start, the better your makeup will sit.